Another day, another mountain...only this time we went up on foot, through a gorgeous forest, up to the site of many pilgrimages, the grotto where Mary Magdalena lived as hermit for the last 30 years of her life. The Benedictines have built a chapel there, hold daily mass, though most visitors are walkers, like us, heading to the top of the massif for the view.
Saturday, May 29, 2010
Wednesday, May 26, 2010
Aix en Provence, De fil en rêves
After lunch, weaving through the smaller streets of Aix's old centre, a box in a window display caught my eye. The owner of the atelier, Sylvianne Bertolucci, abandonned her dressmaker's manneqin and invited us in to visit her creations, costumes fabricated for the Venise Carnavale. She works downstairs in an old vaulted sous-sol that she brought back to life herself. Her website: http://www.defilenreves.fr
Our destination for the afternoon was a small museum with a private collection of faience and other objets. When we arrived at the door, there was the inevitable paper sign tacked up: Museum closed. Ring for the library. Instructions on the little brass plates next to the doors said 1 ring for the museum, 2 rings for the library, so I rang twice. We heard a heavy key turning, and the heavy doors opened and a woman looked out. The library was only made available to researchers and she had not idea when the museum would next be open, which could be next year, or the year after that.
We retreated to the Cours Mirabeau where we bought a bar of dark chocolate as consolation.
Reine, at the Monoprix on the Cours Mirabeau...generous and helpful and a fan of Montreal which she visited and admires for (what else?) its poutine...among other things.
Our destination for the afternoon was a small museum with a private collection of faience and other objets. When we arrived at the door, there was the inevitable paper sign tacked up: Museum closed. Ring for the library. Instructions on the little brass plates next to the doors said 1 ring for the museum, 2 rings for the library, so I rang twice. We heard a heavy key turning, and the heavy doors opened and a woman looked out. The library was only made available to researchers and she had not idea when the museum would next be open, which could be next year, or the year after that.
We retreated to the Cours Mirabeau where we bought a bar of dark chocolate as consolation.
Reine, at the Monoprix on the Cours Mirabeau...generous and helpful and a fan of Montreal which she visited and admires for (what else?) its poutine...among other things.
Sunday, May 23, 2010
Mont Ventoux
No sooner arrived than we took off for the Vaucluse and our annual visit chez Habib and Ruth. The mistral was blowing, which meant windy days in Rians but as we travelled west we felt the full power of this chilly wind that blows down the Rhone Valley...and it was a particularly fierce mistral, so complained the provencales.
As if we did not have enough wind, we decided that enfin we would go to the top of the Mont Ventoux, a visit that has somehow been put off over the years.
Quite the experience!
I was the only one to get out of the car on the top and the wind was so strong that it took all my strenght just to stay standing. My ears almost froze off. And undaunted, the cyclists kept coming! (this is the holy grail of cycling hills)
Just below the bare stony top is a relay station and a welcome cup of coffee. Half the cyclists were fortifying themselves for the cold ride down, the other half still had the last steep montée to do.
Picnic on the northern flank of the Mont Ventoux. We weren't exactly fighting the crowds for a good spot! But we had a perfect view of the top of the mountain.
Before the Ventoux we visited this barrage, the first one built in Provence in the early 18th C. Because of the wet spring the ground was carpeted with these lovely little blue flowers.
As if we did not have enough wind, we decided that enfin we would go to the top of the Mont Ventoux, a visit that has somehow been put off over the years.
Quite the experience!
I was the only one to get out of the car on the top and the wind was so strong that it took all my strenght just to stay standing. My ears almost froze off. And undaunted, the cyclists kept coming! (this is the holy grail of cycling hills)
Just below the bare stony top is a relay station and a welcome cup of coffee. Half the cyclists were fortifying themselves for the cold ride down, the other half still had the last steep montée to do.
Picnic on the northern flank of the Mont Ventoux. We weren't exactly fighting the crowds for a good spot! But we had a perfect view of the top of the mountain.
Before the Ventoux we visited this barrage, the first one built in Provence in the early 18th C. Because of the wet spring the ground was carpeted with these lovely little blue flowers.
Monday, May 10, 2010
My Provence hat is ready
The volcanic ash gave us a scare for a couple of days there, but by this morning it had dispersed (from European airspace and the news headlines), so once more we look forward to our departure on Friday. Over morning coffee I meandered over to the Avignon in Photos blog, to see how the weather is looking in Provence, and found this irresistible photo of the market in Isle sur la Sorgue. My provence hat is already sitting atop my suitcase!
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